From the end of June to mid September

Lyskamm is the biggest and the most elegant 4000 meter peak in the Monte Rosa Mountain Range . These long traverse is one of the most famous and surely the most beautiful snow ridge of the Alps.

Connecting the two peaks of Lyskamm with an exposed ridge, this route requires good phisical shape and previous mountaineering experience. It's possible to traverse in both directions, but normally we suggest you to go from East to West, starting from Mantova Hut and going toward Quintino Sella Hut.

Travel Program

1stDay

Walk up to Mantova Hut m 3480

Meeting with the Mountain Guide in Alagna (lift station) at 2 p.m. After the check of the equipment you will take the cable car until of P.ta Indren and from there, with an easy walk, you will arrive at Mantova Hut m 3500. Dinner and overnight in the hut.

Walk up: 230 m - 1 hour


2ndDay

Crossing

Departure around 4:30. We’ll walk along the Lys glacier on the regular route to Margherita hut. In a couple of hours we’ll reach the starting point of the ridge . Along the narrow ridge we’ ll arrive at the top of the first summit: the East Lyskamm m 4527. From the top the ridge became easier until the Col between the two peaks, and then, some easy rocky step (up to grade II) brings us to the second Lyskamm (4491 meters). From the summit we’ ll start the descent to the Felik joch. At the beginning still steep and exposed and then easier until the Col. From there, through the regular route of Castore, we’ ll arrive at Quintino Sella Hut 3585 and then at Bettaforca Col. With the lift we’ll go down to Staffal –Salati pass and finally to Alagna

Walk up 1100 m – walk down 1750 m – 8/10 h


More details


TECHNICAL INFO: This itinerary goes along a very exposed snow ridge; there are not technical difficulties but it’s very important to stay focused on your steps for a long time. The steeper slope it’s about 50° and the last part that reaches the west Lyskamm is along some rock and mixed steps (II°). This challenging traverse is for experienced mountaineers.

The accompaniment of two participants will be decided by the Guide in according to their experience, preparation and technical skills.


Gallery

Difficulties

AD+ / Fairly Difficult +

Skills required

Excellent physical shape, good training and practice in the use of ice axe and crampons are required

Duration, Participants and Deadline

Duration Min Max Deadline
2 days 1 1

Equipements

High mountain clothing, harness, crampons, ice axe, helmet, head light

Documents

Alpine Club Card is recommended

Prices

1 person790,00 €per person

Rate details

THE PRICE INCLUDES: Support and assistance of a U.I.A.G.M. Mountain Guide, all the technical equipment in common use, rental of technical equipment if you need (harness, crampons, ice axe), logistics and reservation to the Hut

THE PRICE DOES NOT INCLUDE: trip cable car Alagna/Indren the first day and the round trip cable car Bettaforca-Staffal- Alagna the second day, half board to the Hut. Guide’s lift ticket and half board will be shared by participants, injury insurance