From mid July to mid September

Dufourspitze, high more than 4600m, is the highest point of Monte Rosa. The Rey ridge is one of the best rock climbing in high altitude of the area. Its perfect line falls directly from the top to the Grenz Glacier.

About 500 meters of a premium class rock quality: flakes, cracks and spikes of solid granit for a really amazing climbing in one of the most spectacular environment of whole mountain range.

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Travel Program


Walk up to Mantova Hut m 3480

Meeting with the Mountain Guide in Alagna (lift station) at 2 p.m. After the check of the equipment you will take the cable car until of P.ta Indren and from there, with an easy walk, you’ll arrive at Mantova Hut m 3500. Dinner and overnight at the hut.

Walk up, 230 m,1h


Climb to the top

Departure around 3:00; we’ll follow the same itinerary for the Margherita hut until Lys Col. From there we walk down along the upper part of the Grenz glacier until the altitude of 4000 meters. Here we’ ll go up in the glacier between Zumsteinspitze and Dufour to the beginning of the ridge. With a short steep snow slope we’ ll arrive to touch the rocks and sometime we’ll need to take the crampons on. The climbing is always very nice with many flacks and cracks to grab! The ridge ends up exactly on the top of Dufourspitze. The way back is along the Italian regular route to Colle Gnifetti and then to the Indren cable car

Walk up 1350 m, down 1550 m - 10/12 h

More details

TECHNICAL INFO: This itinerary offers a varied terrain with snow slopes (maximum 50° steep) and mostly rock climbing. This ridge, when in good conditions, offers a pure rock climbing ascent. In this case you can climb all the way up without the crampons (it’s quite rare). Technically the ridge has, most of the time, difficulties of III° with only an overhanging step classified IV° You need to pay attention and to have a high level of concentration specially for the way back along the Italian Regular Route.

Overnight at Margherita hut is suggested only to mountaineers with a very good acclimatization.

The accompaniment of two participants will be decided by the Guide in according to their experience and technical skills



D / Difficult

Skills required

Excellent physical shape, good training and practice in the use of ice axe and crampons are required, Basic rock climbing technique is required

Duration, Participants and Deadline

Duration Min Max Deadline
2 days 1 1


High mountain clothing, harness, crampons, ice axe, helmet, head light


Alpine Club Card is recommended


1 person850,00 €per person

Rate details

THE PRICE INCLUDES: Support and assistance of a U.I.A.G.M. Mountain Guide, all the technical equipment in common use, rental of technical equipment if you need (harness, crampons, ice axe, helmet), logistics and reservation to the Hut.

THE PRICE DOES NOT INCLUDE: Round trip cable car Alagna/Indren and half board to the Hut. Guide’s lift ticket and half board will be shared by participants, injury insurance.