From the end of June to mid September

Sella ridge divides perfectly the east side from the west side of Lyskamm. Certainly it is a great itinerary along one of the most beautiful peak of Monte Rosa.

Its south exposition protects the whole itinerary by the predominant winds from north. A prestigious climb immersed in a charming and very panoramic environment. The central location of the East Lyskamm offers one of the most exciting view that you can find in the whole Monte Rosa mountain range.

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Travel Program


Walk up to Mantova Hut m 3480

Meeting with the Mountain Guide in Alagna (lift station) at 2 p.m. After the check of the equipment you will take the cable car until P.ta Indren and from there, with an easy walk, you’ll arrive at Mantova Hut m 3500. Dinner and overnight at the hut.

Walk up 230 m - 1h


Climb to the top

Departure around 4:00. We’ll walk along the Lys glacier on the regular route to Margherita hut until Vincent Col (4000 meters) where we’ll turn on the left side walking down about 150 meters. The steep slope (45°) goes on the top of Nose of the Lyskamm and from there we’ll begin the climb on the rocky ridge until the magnificent peak. The way down is along the Regular Route through the Lys Joch and Mantova Hut.

Walk up and 1100 m, Down 1370 m - 7/8 hours

More details

TECHNICAL INFO: This itinerary offers a varied terrain with snow slopes (maximum 50° steep) mostly rocky, mixed climbing (up to grade II+) and long and narrow snow ridge. During the way down along the regular route it’s very important to stay focused on your steps .

The accompaniment of two participants will be decided by the Guide in according to their experience, and technical skills.



AD / Fairly Difficult

Skills required

Excellent physical shape, good training and practice in the use of ice axe and crampons are required, Basic rock climbing experience is required

Duration, Participants and Deadline

Duration Min Max Deadline
2 days 1 2


High mountain clothing, harness, crampons, ice axe, helmet, head light


Alpine Club Card is recommended


1 person700,00 €per person
2 people400,00 €per person

Rate details

THE PRICE INCLUDES: Support and assistance of a U.I.A.G.M. Mountain Guide, all the technical equipment in common use, rental of technical equipment if you need (harness, crampons, ice axe, helmet), logistics and reservation to the Hut.

THE PRICE DOES NOT INCLUDE: Round trip cable car Alagna/Indren and half board to the Hut. Guide’s lift ticket and half board will be shared by participants, injury insurance.