ALONG THE ITALIAN REGULAR ROUTE
From the end of June to mid September

Dufourspitze, high more then 4600m, is the highest point of Monte Rosa and the second one of the whole Alps. The ascent along the italian regular route is an exciting climbing, very exposed on the highest wall of the alps: the east side of Monte Rosa.

The terrain is the classic one of the high altitude ridges: varied with some narrow snow ridges and some steps of solid red rock. Absolutely this climb must never be underestimated.

Travel Program

1stDay

Walk up to Mantova Hut m 3480

Meeting with the Guide in Alagna (lift station) at 2 p.m. After the check of the equipment you will take the cable car until of P.ta Indren and from there, with an easy walk, you’ll arrive at Mantova Hut m 3500. Dinner and overnight at the hut.

Walk up, 230 m,1h


2ndDay

Climb to the top

Departure around 3:00; we’ll follow the same itinerary of the Margherita hut until Colle Gnifetti. From here we’ll turn left reaching easily the top of Zumsteinspitze m 4563. Then we’ll start the exposed and steep descent to Pope Col . From the Col the ascent becomes a typical mixed climb where it’s mandatory to keep the crampons on even on rock. After a couple of steep rocky steps we’ll reach the Italian summit, just few meters lower than the Suisse one. From there the ridge goes quite flat but narrow and exposed until the big cross of the higher top. The descent is along the same itinerary, including the climb back to the Zumsteinspitze.

Walk up and down1250 m - 10 hours


More details


TECHNICAL INFO: This itinerary offers a varied terrain with narrow snow ridges maximum 50° steep and some rock climbing. Technically the rocky steps are never more than III° grade but you have always to move with the crampons on over 4500 meters. If iced, some ridges could be very delicate to cross. You need to pay attention and to have a high level of concentration especially for the way back

Overnight at Margherita hut is suggested only to mountaineers with a very good acclimatization.

The accompaniment of two participants will be decided by the Guide in according to their experience, preparation and technical skills.

Gallery

Difficulties

AD+ / Fairly Difficult +

Skills required

Excellent physical shape, good training and practice in the use of ice axe and crampons are required, Basic rock climbing experience is required

Duration, Participants and Deadline

Duration Min Max Deadline
2 days 1 1

Equipements

High mountain clothing, harness, crampons, ice axe, helmet, head light

Documents

Alpine Club Card is recommended

Prices

1 person790,00 €per person

Rate details

THE PRICE INCLUDES: Support and assistance of a U.I.A.G.M. Mountain Guide, all the technical equipment in common use, rental of technical equipment if you need (harness, crampons, ice axe, helmet),logistics and reservation to the Hut

THE PRICE DOES NOT INCLUDE: Roud trip cable car Alagna/Indren and half board to the Hut. Guide’s lift ticket and half board will be shared by participants, injury insurance