From July to mid September

A great 4 days program where you will have a beautiful and very challenging ride in the heart of Monte Rosa, starting from the south side of it, Alagna Valsesia (or Gressoney).

During the tour we’ ll reach the summit of Punta Giordani 4046m, Signalkuppe 4559m, Zumstain 4563m, Dufourspitze 4636m, Lyskamm 4537m, Parrot 4436, Ludwigshoe 4340m, Swarzhorn 4322m and Pyramid Vincent 4220m. A shaggy of peaks over 4000m high and two nights at Margherita Hut. Enjoy the trip!

Travel Program

1stDay

Climb to P.ta Giordani m 4046

Meeting with the Mountain Guide in Alagna Valsesia at 7:00 o’ clock. After the check of the equipment you will go up with the cable car until P.ta Indren m 3273. From there you’ll start walking along the Indren glacier.During the way up few stops are “mandatory” to take pictures, rest and drink . The last few meters are on rock. The ridge is more impressive than difficult and in few steps you will be standing close to the Madonnina on the top of your first 4000 meters peak. The way down is along the same itinerary until 3400m and then up again until Mantova Hut

Walk up 1000 m, down 780 m– 5/6 hours

2ndDay

Climb to Margherita Hut - m 4559 + Crossing Vincent/Parrot

Departure around 8:00 following the regular route leading to the top of Signalkuppe m 4559. We’ ll walk up very slowly to have a good acclimatization. On the way will be possible to climb all the peaks situated on the south ridge of Monte Rosa: Piramide Vincent 4215m, Balmenhorn 4167m, Swarzhorn 4322m, Ludwigshoe 4342m, Parrot Spitze 4436m. Dinner and overnight at Margherita Hut

Walk up 1050 m, 4/5 hours (without crossing Vincent - Parrot) or 1380 m and 6/7 hours with crossing Vincent - Parrot

3rdDay

Crossing Zumstain - Dufour - Nordend

Departure around 5:00 walking down until Gnifetti Col. From here we’ll turn left reaching easily the top of Zumsteinspitze m 4563. Then we’ll start the exposed and steep descent to Pope Col .From the Col the ascent becomes a typical mixed climb where it’s mandatory to keep the crampons on even on rock. After a couple of steep rocky steps we’ll reach the Italian summit, just few meters lower than the Suisse one. From there the ridge goes quite flat but narrow and exposed until the big cross of the higher top. The way back it’s along the same itinerary until Margherita Hut.

Climb up and down 450m – 6 hours

4thDay

Crossing of Lyskamm

Leaving early from the Hut walking down until the Lys Joch. From Here, climbing the narrow snowy ridge we’ ll arrive at the top of the first summit: the East Lyskamm m 4527. From the top the ridge became easier until the Col between the two peaks, and then, some easy rocky step (up to grade II) brings us to the second Lyskamm (4491 meters). From the summit we’ ll start the descent to the Felik joch, at the beginning still steep and exposed and then easier until the Col. From there, through the regular route of Castore, we’ ll arrive at Quintino Sella Hut 3585 and then at Bettaforca Col. With the lift we’ll go down to Staffal –Salati pass and finally to Alagna

Walk up 500 m – walk down 1950 m – 8/9 h

More details

TECHNICAL INFO: During the tour will be possible to climb 9 peaks over 4000m. Most of them have classic difficulties on snow slopes up to 50 ° and just a couple of very easy rocky steps up to II°. The biggest difficulties are concentrated on the third and fourth days during the crossing Zumstain-Dufourspitze and the Lyskamm crossing Technically the rocky steps are never more than III° grade but you’ll have always to climb with the crampons on, over 4500 meters, along ridge sometimes very exposed. If iced some step could be very delicate to cross. You need to pay attention and to have a high level of concentration especially for the way back.

Gallery

Difficulties

D / Difficult

Skills required

Excellent physical shape, good training and practice in the use of ice axe and crampons are required, Basic rock climbing experience is required

Duration, Participants and Deadline

Duration Min Max Deadline
4 days 1 2

Equipements

High mountain clothing, harness, crampons, ice axe, helmet, head light

Documents

Alpine Club Card is recommended

Prices

1 person1.600,00 €per person

Rate details

THE PRICE INCLUDES: Support and assistance of a U.I.A.G.M. Mountain Guide, all the technical equipment in common use, rental of technical equipment if you need (harness, crampons, ice axe, helmet),logistics and reservation to the Huts

THE PRICE DOES NOT INCLUDE: Round trip cable car ticket Alagna P.Indren, half board in the huts. Guide’s lift ticket and half board in the hut will be shared by participants.