THROUGHT THE NORTH SIDE AND THE WEST RIDGE
From 24 July to 13 August 2019

Pik Lenin is the second highest peak of Kyrgyzstan. Climbing its 7134 meters will be a proper mountaineering adventure into the untouched nature of far away valleys.

Crossing Bishkek, we’ll reach Osh, in the south part of the country, where our adventure begin. After a short hiking approach we’ll set up camp 1 and camp 2 in order to get a proper acclimatization before doing our attempt to the summit. It’s going to be an ethic expedition, with no summit oxygen or high camp porters: we’ll reach the summit relying only on our own efforts!

Travel Program

1stDay

International flight Milano – Bishkek

International flight Milano – Bishkek

2ndDay

Landing in Bishkek

Landing in Bishkek and transfer to the hotel. Visit of the city and the Gran Bazaar. Traditional dinner. B/D

3rdDay

Flight Bishkek - Osh

Bishkek – Osh: inland flight and private bus transfer to Achik Tash Base Camp 3600mt (8-9 h). Accommodation in tent. B/D

4thDay

Resting day

After the tyring long travel of the day before, we earned a resting day: we’ll relax and prepare our gears as well. B/L/D

5thDay

Pik Petrovskogo ascent

We’ll start our altitude acclimatization days climbing Pik Petrovskogo 4830m, located at the side of the camp (6/8h). We’ll come back to the camp, where we’ll spend the night. B/L/D

6th-18thDay

Set up high camps and Pik Lenin summit attempt

Base Camp-Camp1: A 12Km path we’ll lead us from the Base Camp to Camp1, located at 4300m. We are not yet on the glaciar, usually there in no snow and donkey use to help us with the luggages.

Camp1-Camp2: From C1 we’ll climb to the foot of Pik Lenin north wall, going through a badly crevasssed section. We’ll set up our C2 in a rocky area located at 5300m.

Camp2-Camp3: From C2 we easily reach the west ridge at 5600m. We’ll follow it climbing some 35° slopes and, after having cross Pik Razdelnaya summit (6200m), we’ll descent to a wide col at 6100m, where we’ll set up our C3.

Camp3-Summit: during this long day we’ll climb the last vertical 1000m, in order to get the summit of Pik Lenin 7134. A unique view will repay our efforts: Tien-Shan (Pik Pobeda e Khan Tengri) at the east side, il Kongur ed il Muztagh Ata in the Xinjiang, all the peaks, mostly unnamed, of occidental Pamir at the west and south side.(6-8h uphill).

Descent on the same route. In two days we’ll reach the Base Camp again.

19thDay

Private bus transfer to Osh

Private bus transfer to Osh(8-9h). Accommodation in Hotel. B/D

20thDay

Flight from Osh to Bishkek

Inland flight from Osh to Bishkek. Accommodation in Hotel B/D

21stDay

Landing in Milan

International flight Bishkek – Milan. Landing in Milan. B

More details

The schedule may be subjected to change under unforeseen circumstances

It’s going to be an independent expedition, leaded by a U.I.A.G.M. certified mountain guide from Lyskamm4000 and an experienced kyrgyzstan local guide. We will have to work together carring up gears, stuff and food in order to set up the higher camps: no porters will help us.

DIFFICULTY LEVEL AND REQUIRED SKILLS: Spirit of adventure is essential, as we’ll spend several days in our tents. In order for your adventure to be enjoyable, your body needs to be in good working order. Even if the climbing is not technically difficult, length and elevation gain of the trip, combined with prolonged exposure to high altitude, require good physical shape and should not be underestimated. Good skills in using crampons and ice axe are required.


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Gallery

Difficulties

PD+ / A little difficult +

Skills required

Good spirit of adventure is needed., E' richiesta un'ottima forma fisica, un ottimo allenamento e una buona esperienza di alpinismo in quota

Duration, Participants and Deadline

Duration Min Max Deadline
21 days 4 6 31/05/2019

Equipements

Expedition equipment. The full list will be provided with the detailed informations

Documents

Passport expiring six months after the date of return

Vaccination

no vaccinations are required

Prices

Rate details

WHAT’S INCLUDED: Support and assistance of a Mountain Guide UIAGM certified. Services provided by local tourist agency: camping and climbing permits fees, Transfer from and to the airport, inland private transports . Accommodation in hotel with half board in double room in Bishkek and Osh. Accommodation in tent with full board during the approach and the ascension of Pik Lenin. Kygyzstan english speaking guide and assistant. Chef at base camp and advanced camp. Travel insurance (luggage, medical assistance, repatriation) provided by Innovation Viaggi or other italian travel agency. Search and rescue insurance (maximum coverage 10000€).

Base camp facilities: restrooms with showers, canteen tent, storage room, 220v power access, medical assistance (professional medical doctor in the camp), accommodation in 2 persons tents. Every tent is equipped with mattresses and electricity.

Camp1 facilities: accommodation in 2 persons tents, restrooms, canteen tent, storage, little drugstore, 220v power access only in the evening.

Camp2-3 facilities: accommodation in 2-3 persons tents, camp gears, stoves and gas canisters, lyophilized food.

WHAT’S NOT INCLUDED: International flights, lunches in Bishkek ed Osh , tips, Alcolic drinks, personal equipment and gears, other optional insurance (high mountain injury, travel cancelation, ect..), everything is not mentioned in “WHAT’S INCLUDED”.